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Last Updated: Jan 7, 2009 - 3:27:32 PM |
Basic cleaning and waxing using a Care Kit
These are the instructions I’ve written that come with the
GMP/Meguiar’s care kit. Even if you do not have this specific kit,
these instructions can apply to the items you may be currently using:
The GMP/Meguiar’s kit contains the following
Large Soft Brush – This is
designed for general exterior dusting of a model. It is soft and will
not scratch the surface. You still want to exercise caution around
photo-etched parts and other delicate details.
Medium Soft Brush – Also designed for dusting tasks like the dash and interior surfaces and down into the seats.
Small Soft Brush – Bristles are
shorter and are somewhat firmer. The softness will prevent scratches
and the firmness allows reach into tight spaces like embedded dust in
corners and seat joints. This firmness is also perfect for getting
excess wax out of panel seam lines.
Cotton Swab Applicators – Used
to apply product to your model. By using the applicator, you in a sense
apply scale pressure to the surface of your model and this further
limits scratching.
Micro-fiber Polishing Cloth –
The “new tech” way to polish a model. Designed to pick up and embed any
particles into the cloth and keep it away from the finish. Use light
pressure so as not to add scratches to your surface. Deemed better than
100% cotton cloths by detailing professionals. Can be washed and used
repeatedly.
Gloves – Used while cleaning and polishing your models. Limits additional fingerprints.
#34 Final Inspection Liquid –
Used to initially clean and then maintain your waxed model. Contains
deep luster enhancers that leave a high gloss shine. High lubricity
formula removes dirt without scratching. Use cotton swabs to apply – do
not spray product directly onto the model. Instead, place the tip of
the swab to the spray nozzle and saturate the swab. Then apply to the
model finish, buff off with the Micro-fiber cloth.
#7 Show Car Glaze Liquid – This
is a pure polish for show car finishes. Surface needs to be clean
before application. Each application adds more gloss. Does not dry
white or build up. Should be applied with a cotton swab and wiped off
promptly. Any streaking or “caking” of signifies that too much is being
used. This can be easily removed using #34 Final Inspection
#26 Hi-Tech Yellow Wax – Used
as a final protectant. This product contains no cleaners or abrasives.
It glides on easily with a cotton swab and buffs off easily with the
Micro-fiber cloth, as well.
Suggested Cleaning Sequence
1 - Dust Model with assorted brushes.
2 – Start with #34 Final Inspection wipe down as an initial “wash” to remove dirt.
3 – Apply on #7 Show Car Glaze and buff off. Apply additional coats if desired.
4 – Apply #26 Hi-Tech Yellow Wax, let dry to a haze and buff off.
5 – Maintain the finish with #34 Final Inspection, especially to remove fingerprints.
Additional Professional Detailing Tips
1 – Apply product with Cotton Swabs carefully and in a circular, overlapping motion.
2 – Micro-fiber cloth can be washed and reused.
3 – Always use a clean area on the cloth when working with a specific
product. Mixing product on one area of the cloth can cause streaking.
4 – Streaking or “caking” of product may also signify too heavy of an application.
5 – Wrap the metal area on the brushes with masking tape. This is a
detailer’s trick that prevents accidental scratches from the brush.
6 – Avoid waxing flat black surfaces.
7 – Avoid working over waterslide decals. Age and deterioration may
make decals brittle and any handling may cause damage. Paint tampos can
be waxed.
8 – Store gloves and Micro-fiber cloth in a plastic bag so as to avoid workbench contamination.
Models with heavy dust accumulation can be cleaned with a mild soap and
water solution applied with a cotton swab-one time. Use the solution
sparingly and then go over the model with clean water on a cotton swap
to remove any soap residue. Dried soap residue will act like a glue and
will attract and keep dirt on your model. Under no circumstances should
you use Castrol Super Clean (CSC) or any automotive degreaser product.
CSC will do funny things to diecast – things that will give you
nightmares.
In a previous article, I touched on the basics. Some of the tips are worth repeating
Vacuum
- Computer stores have these neat little battery-powered vacuums. Many,
come with a few attachments. I do not recommend the brush attachments
as they are very stiff and the thick diameter of the intake shaft
prevents any usefulness. To get around this, go to you local health
supply store, one that carries oxygen. Ask them if they carry oxygen
bubble tubing. If they do, a 1-foot section will last you an awful long
time. You will need to cut a short section of tubing at the widest part
of the bubble – in most cases this will be right in the middle. Then
cut the tubing at the thinnest part. This is the end that will go into
the car. It will be about 6 inches of tubing. Attach this to the end of
you vacuum unit and you’re ready to go. Being soft and pliable, the
tubing will not scratch paint or chrome. You can easily get into
corners of the floor and get at any stubborn dust. I also do not
recommend mini attachments you can get for portable, full size vacuum
units. I had a friend who bought a detail brush kit for his Eureka and
I watched him suck the console, pedals and mirror right out of a Camaro
model! The look on his face was priceless!
Buffing rags - Any old rag
will do…right? Wrong! You should be using only 100% cotton rags to buff
your models. Some cotton rags like diapers are stitched with rayon.
Rayon will scratch your model’s surface. Art supply houses offer rolls
of 100% cotton wipes, as do some auto supply houses. Remember, be sure
it’s all cotton! I like to use make up applicator pads in addition to
cotton tip applicators. You can buy these pads 50/for under $2.00. They
are nice since you use them once and then you toss them. This prevents
mixing products on one applicator – something you should never do. They
are available in round and square configurations.
Dust Off - This is the spray
air in a can. This can be an effective way to shear parts right off
your models. The burst of air from the can nozzle could probably be
clocked right with the force of a hurricane! My one friend used this
product as well, and now has quite a few good parts cars. I have seen
other collectors that have mastered the trigger and can clean a model
beautifully! Watching them operate the can is like watching a maestro
conduct a symphony. I use Dust-Off when painting bodies. One gentle
blast will get any errant dust off the surface. I also use Dust-Off
when taking pictures of my models.
Polishes and Waxes - Use only
waxes or polishes recommended for use on clear coats. They do not
contain any abrasives that can scratch your model’s finish. This is
extremely important if you plan on treating a black car to a buffing.
Know that there is a difference between a POLISH and a Protectant. A
polish is a paint conditioner that replenishes oils to the paint,
eliminates fine scratches and creates an incredible deep gloss. Polish
on a dark color car can make a dramatic visual difference. Wax is
designed for durability and to protect the paint.
Removing Tampo Printing -
Tampo prints on a model are very thin applications of paint, sometimes
stamped in layers for various colors. If you wish to remove these
tampos, I have successfully used Meguiar’s Medium Cut cleaner. This is
followed by an application of a glaze. Acetone and non-acetone nail
polish remover will do the trick, but you have to be extremely careful
with these solutions. Unless you know what you are doing, avoid these.
Sometimes there are stubborn glue marks or even scratches on the
surface. To remove the glue marks, especially cyanoacrylate, I use a
product called Bare Metal Plastic Polish. Many yeas ago I did an
article car for a magazine. In the final assembly I touched the front
fender with my finger. It had superglue on it and I left a huge glue
mark on the fender. I thought the model was lost. I had nothing to lose
and tried everything. The only thing that worked was the Bare Metal
Polish. It dissolved the glue mark and polished the paint underneath.
Avoid the temptation to use Debonder to remove Super glue type marks.
Certain Debonders have a strong solvent that will remove paint. Ask me
how I know.
When I’m finished waxing, I put the gloves in a Zip-Lock bag to protect
them from dust and most importantly, debris that might be around the
workbench. Last thing you need is a fine metal shaving to get imbedded
in your gloves and scratch your finish, inadvertently. I also suggest
that you do the same with your buffing rags.
Another good polish that I have used for years is Novus and it comes in
3 concentrations. I would only suggest that a novice use #1 and #2.
Novus is a plastic polish and works well on urethane paints. Many of
our models use urethane clear coats. Realize this is only a polish and
not a protectant.
Solvents and other nasty things -
Most Care and Handling booklets tell you not to use solvents of any
kind. They mean it! I’ve heard of people on the board using Acetone and
all kinds of other things to clean model cars. Two words to those
folks… “You’re nuts!” I have repaired many models for friends who
decided to take glue marks off with acetone. ACETONE WILL SOFTEN
PAINT….period! So unless you’re prepared to send your model for a
repaint, stay away from acetone. There will be someone out there who is
reading this, who will say that he’s used acetone for years. Well,
you’ve been very lucky!
Waxes with cleaners are deadly to a model! Avoid them! They leave fine
scratches on a surface of a model. Over time, continued use will dull
the finish right out.
Avoid the regular use of water on a model. I say this because certain
municipalities have different restrictions on water quality. If you
have a high acid content, number one-you should be drinking bottled
water, but the acid will attack the model over time. Metal parts will
form a crusty, orange coating, commonly known as rust. I know of at
least a few collectors that have wiped down cars with water only to
find that the steering shaft rusted solid within the plastic collar,
making it useless. Yes, they did use a lot of water, but the point is
don’t use it! Water quality comes into play when you start to notice
the metal bubbling under your paint. High acid water gets to the metal
through pores in the paint and over time reacts with the metal, like
acid rain.
Most model chrome is typical automotive chrome and can be cleaned
easily. Sometimes a simple wipe with a soft cloth will do. Be careful
not to use any petroleum-based products on the “other” chrome found on
models. This “chrome” is known as vac-metallized and any petroleum
based cleaner or wax will remove your metallized coating. This coating
is common to promo models, model kit chrome and some cheaper diecast
models.
Sunlight - Extreme heat and
cold are a model’s enemy. Never store your models in an uninsulated
attic. Temperatures can reach highs that will melt rubber tires,
distort plastic and cause paint to eventually bubble. To the converse,
attics can also reach low cold temperatures, too. This constant
expansion and contraction will eventually destroy your model. Direct
sunlight will fade colors on the interior and exterior. Also avoid
exposure to high intensity halogen lights. Some pigments in paint do
not take kindly to this exposure and fade quickly.
Cleaning whitewalls - I will
discourage the use of toothpaste and cleanser. Mainly because this is
an abrasive and many of the whitewalls are painted plastic inserts. You
may think you are brightening up the whitewall, but you are actually
stripping the paint. On certain models these inserts are white PVC.
Bleech-Wite on a cotton-tipped applicator may give you the desired
effect. Use the product sparingly. Also note where you are displaying
your model.The most common cause of whitewall yellowing is sunlight.
Rubber Tires - Not to be
mistaken for PVC tires. You can tell immediately on an older model,
which is which since the rubber tire will form a white coating. I
strongly discourage you from using Armor All. This is an alcohol-based
product, which leaches out the natural oils in rubber. Once you start
using this, you must use it all the time and often. Otherwise, your
tires will crumble away. I suggest using a silicone gel designed to
preserve automotive weather stripping. A good product I have had
success with is Sil Glyde tube lubricant. It is relatively inexpensive
and works very well on real rubber. One application can last a long
time. Meguiar’s also makes an excellent rubber and vinyl protectant.
Models with PVC tires should not be displayed on finished wood
surfaces. Gasses can react with urethanes in the finish and not only
flatten your tires but damage your displays. I recall at FM where a
product damaged someone’s antique dresser top. FM wound up having to
pay to have it refinished and the display feet on the product were
changed. This is also true with clear case bases. I suggest using an
inexpensive sheet of felt under your tires to prevent any problems. The
felt can actually enhance the look of your model, especially if you use
contrasting colors. If you want to see the undercarriage, cut the felt
into pads that only fit under the tires.
Displaying your models - Probably
the most important part of collecting! You have a lot invested in your
collection and you need to think about safely displaying it. If a model
sits out in the open, someone will pick it up. If you have a model in a
case, the casual person may be less likely to pick up the case with the
car.
Displays can be as simple as a $6 ERTL plastic case or as elaborate as
fine crafted cabinetry…the choice is yours. I have a little of
everything in my collection. General display in my shop consists of
those $6 plastic cases, which stack easily. If I make something for a
client, I ask a friend to make a nice stained wood base for these
plastic cases (he has offered to sell the wood bases to anyone reading
this – contact me for details). GMP
makes a very nice looking oak base covered case. Hotchkiss is a
leading manufacturer of multiple car displays as well as individual
cases. I believe they even make the cases for Danbury Mint.
Franklin Mint also has cases of varying size and cost and they have
introduced the plastic stackable case. Roger Hardnock designed this
display, for those who like trivia.
I have models that I worked on displayed in my family room in two
curios. They are “nice” wood furniture that “go” with the rest of our
room décor. One word of caution regarding closed curios, many have
halogen lighting so limit the use of these lights unless you have waxed
and protected the model’s finish. The yellow on the FM Boss 302 has
been known to fade under this lighting. Also be aware of temperature.
If you are not an air conditioning fan (no pun intended) you may wish
to check the temp inside the cabinet when the temp outside goes up. The
easiest way to do this is to buy two inexpensive thermometers – like
those you see on winter ski jackets. Put one inside your curio and tape
one outside the glass. On really hot days you might be surprised to see
the variation in temperature.
Avoid displays in shops and offices. If it is a public venue, stray
fingers will destroy your models. I suggest only models of interest,
not value, be displayed in public venues. Garages are also not good
places to have models out in the open. If you like having your
collection with your 1:1 ride, at least have them in a case. Exhaust
residue can find its way onto your model and eventually damage your
paint.
Models are designed to last a long time. Sometimes there are defects in
the metal itself that can’t be known until the model damages itself.
Newer Diecast have had this addressed to the best of a manufacturer’s
ability and should stand the test of time. However, like with a real
car, you do need to pay some attention to your collectibles and give
them a fighting chance.
As with anything, use good common sense and be educated. Don't panic
or start dumping your collections. If you do you may find that you'll
have to dump a good portion of the parts on your car, your house and
other beloved things. Don't be afraid of your cars...you have more to
worry about in your home medicine cabinet.
I hope this guide helps you maintain your cars for many years to come.
I will be trying some new synthetic paint sealant on some of my cars.
I'll let you know how that goes and long term results.
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